Given my age and the inherent downsides that came with numerous not so intelligent decision making along the way, I found it a bit difficult to raise & mount a steel frame bike on my newly purchased (from BikemanforU) Park PCS-9 Home Mechanic’s Repair Stand.
Lifting the bike up was one issue; cranking the clamping jaws to secure the bike was yet another; I had difficulty getting the crank handle to clear the seat. Yes, I raised the seat. Yes, I tried the crank on both sides of the seat.
The bike I was going to work on is another Pacific Chinese ‘wonder’ bike – a.k.a. FRANKENBIKE.
FRANKENBIKE is a rescue bike; in as much as it was gracing the curb alongside of several over filled trash receptacles & I got to it before anyone else did. Ergo, the bike was rescued.
I named it FRANKENBIKE because, similar to Frankenstein’s monster being made up of parts from several toes-up people, FRANKENBIKE is made up of parts from several toes-up bikes. Fortunately for me it has a 25.4 (1 inch) seat tube.
The HACK - MOD:
I have a Pacific 24” Roadmaster Mountain Bike (?) carcass lying about … rather, what’s left of one. This too was a rescue bike. The Roadmaster has a 1 inch threaded fork tube.
I hacksawed off the threaded tube just at the top of the crown race. The remaining fork piece was deposited at the Altar of Curb as a sacrifice to the big green diesel demon (WasteManagement) that shows up every Friday, except on specific holidays, to devour whatever is left for it to consume by the inhabitants of the ‘community’. It then lumbers back to its lair, regurgitates and comes back for more.
Next, I used paint stripper and sand paper to clean up the tube.
NOTE: This threaded fork tube tapers out a few thousandths a couple of inches above the crown race so that the crown race force fits; which is typical for most forks, I would imagine.
Consequently, some time was spent narrowing this section a few thousandths with a one inch belt sander, hand file, 150 grit sand paper and a whole lot of patience so that the finished piece would slide easily into the seat tube. This is by no means a boom n’ zoom, it took some time; file, sand, fit – rinse and repeat as necessary.
I screwed on the Roadmaster’s upper bearing race inverted on the sawed off tube and then put the OEM hex nut on top of that bottoming it on the tube and snugged the race securely up against the nut. I did use a smidgen of 242 Blue (Medium) Loctite on the threads where the race would seat after mating with the top nut.
Next, I installed my newly one-off fabricated hack-mod piece in the seat tube using the quick-release and chucked up the bike in the PCS-9’s jaws.
The inverted upper race and top nut help to prevent the bike from sliding down through the clamp and aids in supporting the bike as I close the clamp on the PCS-9. It all works quite nicely.
ADVANTAGES (these are subjective):
1) Removing the seat makes the bike a bit lighter to muscle up into the PSC-9 clamp
2) Removing the seat helps prevent it from being damaged as I muck about
3) Removing the seat frees up more over the top work area and view
*I suppose that it may have been easier to use another seat post, drill a hole straight through the 7/8 inch section and install a bolt and lock nuts to act as the stopper. Albeit, I didn’t have a spare seat post and I was being frugal. Besides, I like this one.
P.S. – BikemanforU has the best pricing on the PCS-9 when using his SPIKEIT 10% discount code during checkout.
*The PCS-9 can be found here: http://www.bikemanforu.com/products/park-tool-pcs-9-bicycle-repair-stand.html
*Bikeman’s PCS-9 Video: